Heat Element Size

Yes a parts list would be great indeed. Still looks daunting but as said in the reply to DouBrew…I have never done it so I am pretty sure I can do it.

Not trying to take a short cut but would a 3 phase controller be the well known 1 phase controller only with right sized parts and three times the wiring or am I over-simplyfing things?

It is not more complicated. It just uses 3-phase switches, SSRs and protection circuits.

My thought was, heat up the HLT to a couple of degrees above mash temp, drain what you need for mashing into the mash while keeping the coil just submerged and start heating again. The problem being that you you need to add enough heat to compensate the heat leakage in the tubing, mash tun and MLT. But I guess that will not be an issue if I can get this 3 phase wiring sorted in my head as the element will provide enough power to that.

Cool, didn’t download and read the how to wire your electric brewery for nothing in that case. What receptacles from the heating elements should I be thinking about on the control panel? The US books all point toward NEMA L6 - 30 but I don’t think that will work in Europe and neither will schuko’s :wink:

I use CEE plugs for the elements.
In my box above:

  • power comes in, then splits to a 1-phase and a 3-phase switch.
  • after the 1-phase switch is the 12V supply which powers the spark and heating and glycol pumps used for fermentation control.
  • after the 3-phase switch I have a relay that is switched by the emergency stop.
  • after the emergency stop: 24V supply for the hot side pumps and SSRs for the elements.

For each heating element I have:
Spark signal --> manual switch --> float switch (dry fire protection) --> SSR control input.

So a heating element turns ON if these 3 conditions are true:

  • Spark turns it ON
  • Manual switch is ON
  • There’s water in the kettle

The LED above the switch is directly connected to the Spark output. The LED under the switch is connected to the SSR, so it turns ON if the manual and float switch are also closed.

Note that this box has no GFCI. The GFCI is in the main meter box of the home, as it should be.

Cool thanks, my head is spinning a little bit and I have indulged myself sofar in the electricbrewery, Ebrew supply and skrillnet controllers (with seperate PIDs) that I now have a hard time understanding what needs to be done. Half my mind tells me to try and convert those options into a a 3 phase box and after that try to tinker with spark other side of my brains tells me to suck it up and go with your system already Elco…feels like I need an immersion chiller around my head this evening.

Okay all, I had a think over the weekend, to keep things relatively simple. What parts of the electricbrewery/Skillnetz layout do I have to change out to move from 1 phase to 3 phase. They way I look at it now is that I need to change the contactors and ssr’s only + thicker wiring where applicable. Do you have an alternative for the Packard C230C which is in most single phase builds?I am

@elco I would love to order parts from you (safe, thanks for the help here, close to home/support your local etc.) but there seems to be a few things out of stock like the 3 phase ssr’s, round heating elements do you have an estimate when these will come back in stock. I am stoked to get working on the pots already but want to plan this carefully that I get all the parts in place first.

You gave me a lot to think about this weekend so thanks again!

I have furthered my thoughts and have started the design of my panel and are making my parts list. Any good advice for the 3 phase contactors?

The actuator output max 20mA and the 3 phase ssr’s load is ≤25mA and one LED ≈ 10mA so the load could be as high as 45mA. Would that not burn the actuator output of the Spark?