Going back to Elco’s system diagram, has anyone done scoping on the 1-way valves or y-strainers? I’m contemplating assembling a system somewhat like Elco’s concept however all of the 1-ways that I’ve found are not for use with “homebrewer style” mag drive pumps like the march 809 or chugger (and much less so the 24v small pumps). The reason seems to be that with the 1/24 hp, they don’t have the pressure needed to open the valve. The ones I’ve seen are diaphragm-style checks, but perhaps there’s something more in line with the checks used in something like a kegging gas line? I love the concept of a collapsed multi-flow system but that model breaks down if the one-way valves aren’t feasible.
Also, I’m curious if there is any difference in the kind of y-strainer that any of you is using. I’ve really only seen the mesh-canister type. I imagine these would need to be disassembled after each brew session. Any thoughts on how that would break our quasi-CIP?
So to further my own answer, it looks like a march / chugger is generating somewhere just north of 5 PSI. That means we’ll need a check valve with significantly lower “crack pressure” or spring pressure. I am doing all tri-clover if possible, and just found these. They have a spring pressure of 2 psi or lower, with a 1" tri-clover flange. Probably perfect for my application. http://www.spraysmarter.com/banjo-1-flanged-poly-check-valve.html I imagine you can find bsp/npt threaded without much problem.
I am not sure I am going to keep the strainers. They limit the flow and with kettle filters in place, they are not really necessary.
I bought the one way valves form a supplier in China and I have a few in stock. I only bought a small batch, but I have some left that I could sell to you.
I do still have some interest in this however I’m still at the point where I’m deciding if taking this route will even work for me. The check valves themselves, could I assume they are 1/2" threaded stainless? Do you know if our pumps are powerful enough to open them?
I’m going to correct myself here and say not to buy the parts I called out. I suppose I wasn’t thinking about two important factors - first that the maximum operating temperature is too low for our application, and second that having plastic in the “cold” side should be limited as much as possible. So, while these would have been perfect for their size and price, they are a total no-go, sadly.
I opted for swing type check valves, which require very low pressure to open, but can withstand quite a bit of pressure in the reverse direction.
The only reason I used check valves at some points is because they are much cheaper than a motorized valve. If at a certain point a check valve was enough, I didn’t have to put in an expensive motorized valve + controller.
Elco, I got your plumbing schematic from the thread on homebrewtalk but haven’t seen you post or discuss it here. Maybe it would help some others if you put it up. I’d love a little more detail on the valves you’re choosing so I can scope something similar. I love your concepts on this.