Fermentrack vs Brewblox

How good is the Brewblox to maintain a stable fermentation temp compared to fermentrack? I’m currently using fermentrack and it’s working fine as long as there’s an active fermentation but when it’s done and I want to increase the temp a bit it starts overshooting both when it’s heating and cooling by about 0,5C. Don’t know if it matters much but it’s annoying so thinking of upgrading to Brewblox :slightly_smiling_face:

It may require some tuning to get the best performance, but for fridge setups, even the default settings achieve accuracy values well within the 0.5C range.

OneWire sensors have a 0.05C resolution. We know from experience that it’s absolutely possible to tune the system to hit this limit. Admittedly, at that point I suspect it’s mostly a benefit for the ego, and not the beer.

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Thanks :slightly_smiling_face:
I don’t need 0,05 resolution but ±0,1 would be nice. I already have that on my setup but only during the first couple of days when there’s activity in the airlock. After that it’s starts to oscillate.
Is it possible to monitor and control Brewblox from outside the network? Are there password protection or something? What I’m doing now is port forward so I can monitor when I’m not home and if I want to change settings I have to log in with username and password.

My setup is a fridge with 60w heater at the bottom and two 120mm noctua pc fans for air circulation.

For remote access, we recommend setting up a virtual private network on your server. This offers both solid security, and full remote access to the UI and SSH. An install guide can be found here: Remote access | Brewblox.

Then I’d start with the default settings from the fridge wizard, and add a Logic Actuator to run the fans whenever the heater or cooler is active.

Thanks :slightly_smiling_face:
Now I just run the fans all the time but that’s probably not necessary?

Exact values depend on your fridge, but 100% uptime on the fans is not necessary. For steady temperatures, your cooler / heater will be active a few minutes per hour. Two 120mm fans will recirculate the air in a fridge almost instantly.

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Thanks for your help :slightly_smiling_face:
Just ordered a Brewblox 4 and some stuff, set up Brewblox on a pi 3 i had and configured wireguard. And it works :slightly_smiling_face:
Looking forward to hooking it all up when it arrives :smiley:

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Fermetrack is actually a fork of an early version of BrewPi. We have almost rewritten all of the code since then and improved our algorithms.

I used brewpi many ears ago. I even bought the arduino shield and lcd from you :slightly_smiling_face: Looking forward to trying Brewblox.

A tip for remote access… After I installed WG on my pi and set up a client on my phone I stumbled upon a youtube video about Wireguard Easy. Easy docker installation and instead of dealing with private and public keys I log in to WG Easy website on my server, add a client and it generates a qr code I scan with the WG app on my phone and I’m good to go :slightly_smiling_face:

That does sound interesting. I’ll make a note to have a look at it, and see whether we can (automatically) make use of it.

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Awesome :slightly_smiling_face:

Received the Brewblox today. Do I need an sd card in the spark 4?
Do I ever need to take the spark apart? The enclosure didn’t have the best fit so it fell a bit apart when I took it out of the box. Was thinking I could just glue it together or something?

No. Internal memory is used for normal operations. The slot is there because the component is cheap enough to add it in case we can make use of it in a future update.

This was the enclosure of the Spark itself, and not between the Spark and GPIO module? That really shouldn’t happen. It should click closed. If the enclosure is broken or printed incorrectly, we can ship a replacement.

The Spark is taken out of its enclosure when mounted to a DIN rail, or when the board is mounted to the back of a panel, with the display mounted to the front. I wouldn’t recommend glueing it closed.

It’s the lcd part of the enclosure that pops off. I can click it back on but it pops off almost as soon as i touch it. Seems like the hooks or what its called isn’t big enough. I can put some hot glue on it if I have. That can easily be removed.
Are there any wiring manual or something?

As I said before, that really shouldn’t happen. It’s up to you, but we’d be happy to send a replacement enclosure, or the 3D printer files if that’s more convenient.

For the Spark in general, or for a fridge setup? The number and diversity of Spark-based systems makes a one-size-fits-all manual impossible.

Thanks for the offer :slightly_smiling_face: I’ll have a closer look at it tomorrow or something. If I can work something out its good, or else I’ll let you know.

Never mind the wiring manual. I figured it out and also managed to create a logic actuator for my noctua fans. Seems like it’s working too :slightly_smiling_face: Haven’t hooked it up to my fridge yet, only tested it on the bench :slightly_smiling_face:

When I tried to make a new block, like the logic actuator, I configured it to use the right digital actuator and added it to the dashboard so I could see it. But it seemed like some of the settings didn’t stick. I had to edit the widget at set what actuator to use one more time for it to work. I’m totally new to this so I assumed I did something wrong but it happened several times…

Didn’t stick when finishing the creation wizard, or after? (If it loses data during the wizard, it’s a UI bug, otherwise it may also be firmware)

After the creation wizard. Had to open the settings in the widget and add it there and then it stuck.

Thanks! I’ll try and reproduce it here. Could you please run brewblox-ctl log? That will show if any service/firmware-side errors were logged.