First off you shouldn’t have pulled on the panel like that while the thermostat was still connected. lol
The pink wires are obviously the compressor control as they are connected to the thermostat. One of them is connected to live and the other to the live wire connected to your compressor. You can probably pull one of these down and out to the back (the one connected to the compressor). Your first picture shows where all of the neutral (white) wires have been connected. How you tap into ground and live is your prerogative as there are lots of ways to do it. Just don’t use anything smaller than 14 AWG rated for high voltage applications.
Since I’m not familiar with that particular fridge I don’t know how the wires are being routed but it should be fairly obvious.
I just did this on my True GDM-6. It’s a newer model so it doesn’t have ballasts for the florescent lights as it has an LED strip. It also has a much smaller compressor. You’ll need to check your thermostat model to see how many amps its rated for and get SSR’s that meet or exceed it.
I used an open spot in the neutral terminal block to connect neutral to my heater. I then used a 3 port push connector to splice in live to the SSR’s and jumped it across just like in the fridge hacking guide. The compressor will already be connected to neutral so all you have to switch is live to the pink wire that runs to the compressor.
Also there will probably be permagum sealing off the port where wires go from inside the fridge to outside the fridge. You should seal this back up when you’re done with some fresh permagum. You can get it at Home Depot in the electrical department as “Duct Sealing Compound.”